MIDTOWN WEST. When Alain Ducasse opened his much-anticipated restaurant in Midtown, he did so to much fanfare and media attention. He did not disappoint. Each dining area is exquisitely decorated, with artwork and antiques from the owner's private collection. Guests are presented with a veritable parade of decadence a wax-sealed wine list, white-gloved servers and a meal worth every cent of its hefty price-tag. Featured entrées on the prix fixe menu may include anything from breast of squab or duckling wrapped in fig leaves to spinach-wrapped lobster or lamb roast breaded with dried fruit. When the smoke clears, you sign your bill using the Montblanc pen of your choice. As can be expected, you'll want to save room for dessert. Reservations are necessary. Prix fixe menus: 3-course $150, 4 course $185; tasting menu $265. TRAIN: 1, 2, 3, 9 to 59th St-Columbus Cr