QUEENS. Well worth the trek to Bayside, this noteworthy Thai eatery has earned its stripes by serving up spectacular fresh fish and seafood main courses like pan-seared Hawaiian ahi tuna, scallop pad pak and "poor man" lobster curry (made with broiled monkfish). If something more terrine is called for, there's also a steak noodle dish as well as a New Zealand rack of lamb and pan-seared duck breast. As for aesthetics, don't let the modest exterior fool you ­ ESS's features smooth hardwood floors, high ceilings and exposed brick walls handsomely appointed with artwork, rugs and fabrics that capture the exotic flavor of the East.

EAST VILLAGE. Billed by many East Villagers as their neighborhood's best choice for Thai, Holy Basil, it's safe to say, has assumed near mythic-levels of popularity. The mood is low-key, and the dim lighting and flickering candles add a bit of intimacy to the setting. Go for a tried-n-true number like pad thai or Bangkok duck. If you're feeling adventurous, the kitchen also hits the mark with its flavorful curries and seafood dishes. A handful of vegetarian options are available as well. NB As you scan the menu, single asterisks beside certain items mean "spicy;" double asterisks mean "very spicy." TRAIN: 6 to Astor Pl; N, R, W to 8th St-NYU

GRAMERCY. This Murray Hill institution has always enjoyed a fairly consistent group of customers who appreciate the good food and inexpensive prices. Although the dining room won't knock your socks off, you'll forget the diner look as soon as your food comes to the table. Their most popular dish, nam sad, is a heaping mass of spiced pork and lettuce. Be warned, when they say that the food is hot, they aren't kidding. TRAIN: 6 to 28th St

UPPER EAST SIDE. This terrific Thai restaurant, one of the Upper East Side's faves, attracts a fairly upscale crowd, who appreciate the superb food and tasteful yet understated décor. Indeed, if you are looking for a quiet place to enjoy good Thai food and not lose your shirt in the process, head to the crossing of 2nd Avenue and 84th Street and try Jasmine's beef and noodle stir fry (lar nar) or chicken and rice wrapped in banana leaves. Traditional Thai vegetarian options are also available. TRAIN: 4, 5, 6 to 86th St

BROOKLYN. An urban vibe pervades this Cobble Hill address, where the neighborhood's hip singles gather at night for the trendy scene, the terrific cocktails, the cool music, and the outstanding Thai fare. Indeed, the open kitchen keeps crowds satiated with offerings of pad Thai (one of the place's signatures), nightly fish specials and evocative dessert dishes. If it's nice out, seating is available on the patio to the rear of the restaurant. TRAIN: F, G to Bergen St